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Attic insulation and ventilation

This is the most often done application for existing homes.  The reason being that 60-70% of the home's heat loss is through the ceiling.  By adding more attic insulation and ventilation these home's fuel bills can be reduced or cut by 35-40% on heating.  Also, 35-40% on cooling bills.  This is only attainable when the attic space has been properly addressed regarding any heat producing items and/or bathroom exhaust vents.   

These pictures below are examples of moisture in the attic which is caused by fiberglass insulation installed.  As one can plainly see the attic space which was completely insulated with fiberglass insulation did not prevent the loss of heat therefore contributing to the moisture build up (dew point) which is seen by the frost on the underside of the roof sheating.  The clumps of frost that you see is from the nail heads conducting the (cold) through the roof sheating and the moisture condensing and freezing on them.  This can be checked during warmer weather.  If there is dark staining around the nail heads in the attic. You might have this problem.

PLEASE NOTE:  Don't think that this is just a winter time concern effecting only the gas bill.  By not insulating and properly ventilating your attic space this can affect the roof sheating, shingle condition, and will help in cooling which means lower electric bills in the summer time. 

This is a good example of how a bathroom exhaust fan not being vented properly can ruin the sheating and cause mold and mildew.  Not shown in these pictures but on the ceiling below where this moisture problem was.  The drywall was covered with black mold.  NOTE:  This is the most common problem for existing attics today.  If you have a bathroom exhaust fan in the home, ask the question of where is it terminating?

Below are pictures of how a bathroom exhaust fan should be properly vented.  The flapper on the vent prevents any back drafts.  With the insulated duct it prevents any condensation in the duct that would run down as moisture (dripping) on the ceiling or fan. 

There are two types of procedures for installing cellulose insulation.  One procedure for existing homes where the outside exterior is brick.  In this process two 3/4" wholes are drilled through the mortor joint of the brick.  One is three feet up from the floor and the other is two feet down from the ceiling.  These wholes are drilled every stud cavity spacing or sixteen inch on center.  Using a smaller, more portable machine hoses are reduced down from a 2 1/2" blowing hose to a 5/8" brick nozzle.  The material is blown into the lower holes first and then into the upper holes to obtain a "dense" pack density.

The holes are then filled with new mortor and brushed.  With other sidewall applications the procedure are basically the same with the difference being in the opening and closing for each particular exterior wall construction.